10/06/2011

List #1. What to do when you (hypothetically) have moved to a place and have no established routine or social circle.

You have a lot of free time and need to find ways to spend it where you wont be lonely or feeling bad about yourself.  

Sublist #1:  Things not to do:
1. Watch a lot of T.V.
2. Feel sorry for yourself
3. Hours on the internet
4. Pity-eat
5. Reminisce about old times -- spending hours on facebook looking at photos or sitting on gchat talking with home friends

Sublist #2:  Things to do
1. Go for long walks. Preferably in the rain. Crying is allowed.
1.5. Go for long bike rides. Preferably in the rain.  Crying will probably impair your vision
2. Talk to random people.  Whats the worst than can happen -- you know no one.
3. Write blog posts about what to do when you are feeling antsy
4. Exercise
5. Cook
6. Read books (if you can handle the utter self-exclusion of it all)
7. Find new hobbies
8. Get better at old hobbies
9. Listen to speeches on youtube
10. Drink 
11. Go to all of the free things that you can
12. Go to a ton of organizations/meetings
13. Be VERY outgoing and optimistic
14. Make art.  Especially if you aren't artistic
15. Send out letters and postcards
16. Call grandma

10/03/2011

Juggling in CO

In moving to a new place (CO) and starting a new job (AmeriCorps), it is hard to keep a lot of things constant.  Routines are abandoned and habits become memories.  It is a kind of test, a way to determine what you find important in your life, what you are willing to sacrifice and fight for.  I'm not surprised by most of the things that I've managed to retain, but there is one action that I'm always baffled at -- juggling.  I picked up juggling about a year ago when I found out that my little brother, Andrew (age 20, slightly skinnier clone of Franklin), could juggle.  It took me days to learn, but after I picked it up, I was gone forever.  In Spain, I learned some tricks and formed friendships that were largely based upon juggling.  Saw some crazy clown shows, watched circus men juggle flaming knives, and learned that I know almost nothing about the art.  When I got back to the USA, I bought some juggling clubs and went to a juggling club here in CO.  I think that I now finally have glimpsed the mountain of juggling and realized how imposssibly far it is up to the top, full of lightning-quick hands, strange jargon, even stranger objects, and my jaw hanging agape most of the time.

But that is okay -- I'm fine with marvelling at people so much better than me.  Yet, it is still something that I enjoy coming back to, find myself unknowingly picking up the balls and messing around.  Sometimes I get in weird trances, lost completely in the act, only to awake an hour later with an unexplainable smile on my face. That is what I think draws most people to juggling -- it is an act (or action, who are you really performing for?) that easily allows -- almost forces you -- to focus all of your mind on your hands and the things moving 6 inches in front of your face. No daydreaming or stress permitted.  If you start thinking about what you're going to eat for dinner, the balls will drop.  And do you really want to drop the balls?  

You could draw a line between juggling and meditation -- both focus on nothing else than what is happening at this moment.  But I couldn't do it -- juggling has something more that meditation lacks.  It is finding peace in action, almost chaos, being able to sustain this weird pattern even though you really have no idea how it works (and lets face it, no one really understands how you get your hands to move and throw the balls in such a perfect pattern over and over again).  It is observing a machine move and move and move, and then knowing that you are the machine and you realize wow (but then drop the balls again, because that thought is just another part of the daydream)!  For me, my favorite part about juggling is right after I learn a new trick and can do it unthinking.  My brain has processed it and all I have to do is put effort into my physical capabilities, focus eyes and hands on the atoms whizzing around and thats it, until maybe a spontaneous laugh comes up from nowhere and I drop the balls, but thats okay because I understand then that the balls will always be in the air, whether you put your hands to them or not.

(I'll put up a video soon)

8/22/2011

Alexis' Waterfall Chateau


Alexis met us half an hour up the road, gorilla-like and wielding a machete.  He whispered to me that the paths on our route were treacherous, so we would have to walk single-file in some places.   This little spark of danger made me a little nervous, but it was worth it, as Alexis would take us on one of the most diverse and beautiful hikes that I have been on in a long time.  We started in the forest, looking for snakes, those tiny adorable leaf cutter ants, and (I quote here) 'monkeys moving in troops swinging through the trees'.  That is right -- apparently monkeys move in troops (troupes?).  Through some clearing in the brush, we could see the entire valley spread below us.  Completely green and terraced with coffee plantations, it continued on forever.  Alexis took us to two waterfalls, looming giants which you could barely approach because the water fell too strong.  The rocks stood slippery with algae and slime, no path existing, and I realized that this is not a place that many people get to see. 

After swimming in rapids, Alexis took us to his own farm.  It lay bare on a mountainside, the coffee, pepper, chayote, and blackberry plants raising a kaleidoscopal labyrinth which induces a mixture of diziness and wonder.  He kept some land fallow, and we climbed up to the bald peak of a hill -- in fog so thick it was almost solid.  Leaving the forest and instantly coming to this foggy wonderland was, without any other words to put it, horror-movie-creepy.  'Oh-my-God-someone-is-going-to-kill-me-soon' creepy.  I would not have been surprised if the mist had suddenly turned red and a bloodthirsty Costa Rican stumbled through, dual-wielding machetes.  But, Alexis guided us safely out of the fog and to his house.  Like everything during this experience, it was out of a fairy tale; built by hand, his house is made of smooth logs of different colors, fitting together to make the quaintest dwelling imaginable.  It is decorated with hundreds of gourds hanging from the ceiling, mini-watercolors plastering the walls, and woven baskets in the corners.  The furniture is cut by hand and topped with animal pelts.  He has three trout ponds out back, with more than a thousand minnows swimming in each.  And there we are, standing in the middle, jaws agape and marveling at the personality and color of the place.

Note: at the end of the trip, Alexis asked us all to sign a piece of wood.  He is going to have his daughter paint scenery around the signatures and hang it up on his wall.

8/19/2011

Melvin #1 and the Cheese Factory


For our first excursion we drove even further up into the mountains.  

Melvin lives an hour from town and has a farm that mainly produces cheese.  We arrived at 6:30, just in time to lend him a hand with the morning milking.  He shames our weak American fingers, producing fire-hose strength streams of milk while we barely get a tinkle. Melvin is an ageless child, standing  5 feet tall and skinny, a large face and mocking grin.  Wearing knee-high rubber boots, he slogs through the mud and cowpies, directing the flow of cows in and out of the barn.  After the milking, we start with the cheese-making process.  He takes all of the fresh milk (about 2 buckets worth) and strains it into a bowl.  Melvin then adds 3 (or was it 4?)(or 5?) drops of a chemical that magically speeds up the separation of the curd from the whey.  And we wait an hour, conveniently greeted by a breakfast of eggs, tortillas, and fried plantains.  Melvin's wife and brother cooked for us, the kids amazed that they could make so much food over a tiny wood stove (with fire! and smoke!).     

After breakfast, Melvin showed us his farm.  It was like seeing a Latin American Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory guided by a shrunken Costa Rican Gene Wilder.  He walked everywhere with a machete.  We went to his sugarcane fields, where in one smooth arc he lopped off three stalks and carved them into little edible sugar bombs for the students. We toured his pigs, turkeys, rabbits, chickens, genetically-inhanced-dwarf-dogs, and horses -- making it back to see the cheese develop.  The next step is, strangely (is there really anything strange in this place?), to pour hot water over the cheese.  Somehow, the solid part becomes more defined, and Melvin carefully pours out the excess liquid.  He continually lectures us on the importance of hygeniety -- while he fondles the cheese like a piece of play-do.

Nonetheless, we taste the cheese and it is amazing with a pinch of salt.  The students are, by now, cracked out on a combination of endless coffee and sugarcane, so we leave Melvin's farm frollicking and in high spirits, ready for the second leg of our day.  

8/18/2011

Some things that I did during my first week in Los Angeles de Paramo


1. Bought $800 worth of cement and cement accesories in a nearby town
2. Began teaching most of the neighboorhood population of children how to juggle
3. Wove a basket out of newspaper and wood glue
4. Got my 2010 Hyundai Tuscon stuck in a ditch
5. Ate tasty homemade Costa Rican food with only a spoon
6. Did not get bit by any mosquitos
7. Planned out our 16-person group's stay for the rest of the month

8/16/2011

The First Week: And So, It Begins


I stepped off the plane in San Jose to find that American Airlines had lost my luggage.  "No big deal," I told myself.  "You can't do anything about that".  The incompetence of American Airlines actually allowed me an extra day to explore San Jose before I had to head to the village where we would stay for a month.  I immediately got lost in San Jose, a city of interminable signless streets and potholed pavement.  In big areas, I try to move with the crowd, to become lost and overcome with the collective sentiment.  But here, it is impossible.  You find some streets in the center strangely deserted, and others filled with people on individual trajectories, like arrows horse-blinded to their purpose.  Then there are the lotterymen and street vendors, barking eddies of desperation, making you wonder 'do they actually sell any of this stuff?'.  

So I left the city a day late and slightly disillusioned, but ready to find out everything I could about my new home.  The road from San Jose to Los Angeles de Paramo is, when compared with anything in the USA, treacherous.  The Panamericana (a main highway in Costa Rica) is a two-lane windy mountain road.  Common obstacles are: fog so thick you have to slow to a crawl, rock slides closing off half the road, Mack trucks in your lane speeding at you head on as they try to pass slower Mack trucks, scooters, bicycles, angry Panamanian window tinted tailgating BMWs, and your  own exhaustion as you fight to hang on to the inside of every curve.

Leaving the Panamericana, I had to take a dirt road an hour into the mountains.  It is a different kind of horrible than the Panamericana, requiring slow and careful driving to avoid the ditches where you could get your 2010 Hyundai Tuscon stuck forever.  At one point, the road had even been closed down for a month -- a mudslide due to heavy rains washed it completely away.  So I arrived in Los Angeles de Paramo in a drained and dazed state, carried only by the momentum of the roads and some odd vestige of energy I had tucked away before the trip.  

My first meeting was with our Costa Rica contact, Juan Vianey, and the local-head-of-town-shop-owner, Hugo.  I was so exhausted during that interaction that I sat sipping my blackberry smoothie while they blabbered away in fast Costa Rican Spanish.  Apparently, they had decided a lot of things during that conversation, including but not limited to: (1) I was to stay with Hugo for the week (2) All of our projects for a month (3) and that Juan was going to sell Hugo his 15-passenger green Safari Land Rover.  Juan left in his tiny green truck, and there I was, up in the clouds and coffee plantations, preparing myself for what would be one of the craziest months of my life.

6/16/2011

Paco, el charco, and how I lost the masas...

This is really an interweaving of two stories into one.  I first met Paco during Carnaval.  At that time, my friend Jason from Australia was visiting, and I had gotten interested in juggling and doing crazy dances.  So, we decided to merge the two ideas, and started juggle-dancing with invisible balls.  One advantage of using balls that don't exist is that you can do a lot of things that aren't possible in real life.  Throw the balls over buildings.  Behind your back.  In your mouth.  And start spontaneous interactions with complete strangers.

Paco was one of those strangers.  But, instead of being like 'what the hell is going on?', Paco threw the invisible ball back.  This began an intense interchange of about 20 minutes, running around Badajoz, madmen posessed, oblivious of onlookers and obstacles.  It is like finding someone in a crowd who has the same birthday as you; you feel an instant connection.  After we could juggle no more, we hugged and parted ways.  I didn't expect to see him again, and pegged it down as one of those unexplicable coincidences that just happen in life.

Clearly, I did see Paco again (Badajoz isn't that big).  He roomed with one of my Erasmus friends, and after a couple of conversations, he offered to lend me some masas (really cool circus juggling-clubs).  Of course, I accepted.    Paco arranged to have his friends bring them to a BBQ we were planning to have at a nearby pond (el charco).  But he didn't come.  This all could have been avoided if he came.  

Scene 2.  Enter el charco. El charco is one of my favorite spots around Badajoz.  It is a large pond, and is hidden among the hills of an enormous park in the outskirts of Badajoz.  To find it, you have to drive on sandy paths for maybe 2 miles, until you reach a crest and see spread out below a sparkling lake rounded by small acorn trees.  There are groups of teenagers playing in the water, boys playfully tackling girls, everyone drinking wine mixed with coke and listening to bad reggaeton.  But, if you come at the right time, your only companions are ducks.

Some of my friends and I decided to have a going-away party at el charco.  We barbequed; we swam across the lake; we lay in hammocks for hours.  This was my first opportunity to try out the masas and I loved them, being able to juggle three within an hour.  But, somehow in the rush of logistics and packing up, I left the masas behind.  

A week later, Paco asked for the masas.  Only then did I realize that they are lost, and spent a frantic 24 hours trying to find them.  To no avail.  I felt like a shepard who has lost a sheep.  Breaking the news to Paco was hard, but I had to do it.  He was surprisingly understanding, actually still hoping that they will turn up somewhere.  My last interaction with Paco was a rushed goodbye, me leaving a party at midnight to sprint to the bus station to catch a ride to Madrid that will eventually start me on my exaggerated journey home.  

Side note: I ordered some masas online.  I now practice them every day at home.   

5/19/2011

My Rat Tail: 'If only this hair could talk'

For the past 6 months, I have been growing out a small patch of hair on the left side of my head.  From henceforth, I will call it rat tail.  The longer it gets, the more it actually does resemble the tail of a rat.  I cut the rest of my hair, but it keeps on growing, and the distinction becomes more pronounced.  Rat tail has both been braided in neat lines and turned into a dreadlock.  Rat tail dresses as it pleases, wearing thread and dental floss, wrapping around coins and beads.  It can be capricious, curling into my ear or sticking sideways straight out.  It loves attention -- people comment on it almost every day.

'Why?',they ask.  My answer to this pointless question is "its my souvenir from Spain.  My rat tail has accompanied me through adventures and trials, it has the sand and dirt of Spanish beaches and mountains.  I regard it more as an entity outside of myself, something that I've had the ability to grow and grow with."

But this is mostly a bullshit answer.  Anything can be sentimental as such -- shoes, underwear, unwashed sheets, bellybutton lint, etc.    So I guess the real reason is; I don't know.  Rat tail latched on one day and now it is pretty long and maybe a couple of months from now it will be longer.  It is just there, endearing and comforting, always ready to be twirled and played with.  I like the location, weighing my head down with a slight lilt, inspiring thinking and beard stroking.  In a similar hair-vein, I'll close this with a poem that I wrote 2 years ago about my beard:


Ode to a beard

When my beard grows
It is creeping tendrils of
My icy Scandinavian generations,
Grabbing onto something; showing
They still exist, there to help and
Protect, and warm the face in
Times of bitter cold;
Yes, I like you beard, you
Remind me of a time when
Proud Viking warriors could
Strut at the helm of their
Ship, head jutted out, salty ocean
Caught on the face, and
Crack a smile of yellow teeth
Through the matted hair
Dripping into their mouth.
So, beard, stay a little longer;
I am willing to sacrifice a
Few pieces of stale food
And the occasional ingrown hair
For you.

5/17/2011

#13 -- WOMAD

This weekend Lolo and I traveled to Caceres to see a world music festival, WOMAD.  The activity drowned the normally quiet city; multiple stages for concerts, hordes of vendors, street performers, and lots of clowns.  The music, above all, succeeded because of its diversity; Spanish ska bands played after Somali rap that led into sad wailing Portugese singers.  The street performers were even more amazing.  I think that I saw the best beat-boxer of my life; a clown juggling 5 bowling pins; an old man with a dancing old woman suit; humongous puppets.  It seemed like the street vendors came from all corners of the globe; I saw hundreds of them.  They all sell the same artesenal things, poofy pants and braided jewelery.  Everyone lives in vans, travelling from festival to festival.  For me, WOMAD was really exciting, like a whole different facet of culture exposed.  But I wonder, what could life be like for these travelling people?  Is each festival like the one before, melding into a constant stream of crowds and music and hippies?

The old city district also lent an underlying sense of magic to WOMAD.  Wandering around century-old churches and stone stairs, you suddenly stumble upon a hidden concert with hundreds of people packed, literally, into a hole in the wall.  You feel stimulated and excited, with the urge to keep exploring, imagining that the city holds an infinite amount of these surprises, and that all you have to do is just open your eyes.

Some gigantic puppets riding on humans 

5/09/2011

#12-- La Isla de los Gatos: The Isle of Cat, Cat Island, The Planet of the Cats.

For the past 2 days, Lolo and I have been (for lack of a better word) obsessed with Cat Island.  Upon first hearing these two simple words paired together, a spectrum of ideas danced through my head.  Cat Island cut the leash to my imagination.  Are they savage?  Do they eat all who venture onto Cat Island?  Or are they sympathetic and take prisoners?  Is there a king cat?  A catocracy?  A cat-tail-rianism?  A cat-unism? What do they eat?  How did they get on the island?  Do they every get bored of the easy-going island life?  Are there other islands, like Dog Island, Possum Island?  What kind of umbrella drinks do they sip each day?

We first heard of The Isle of Cat from our roomate, Alonso.  Apparently, two cats had fallen from Puente de Palma (a bridge 20/30 meters high) to an island below.  They survived, and people gradually started throwing them food.  The cats had babies, the babies had babies, and the cat population skyrocketed.  Cat Island was born.

But Alonso said it was just an urban legend, and had no idea where it could be.  So Lolo and I went out exploring one night and, as fate would have it, instantly found the mythical land.  In the light the next day, we saw Cat Island in all of its glory.  I counted at least 30 cats sunning themselves on the rocks.  White cats, black cats, dirty, Persian, Siamese -- it was a veritable cat Zoo.  The had all the food they needed, surrounded by loaves of bread and opened cans of tuna.  I have seen many strange things here in Spain, but I think that this might beat them all.  As we reluctantly left, I felt that some of my questions had been answered.  But, in their place, sprang a thousand new doubts.  The Isle of Cat has only served to heighten my sense of mystery and exploration.  Everything now carries the cat tinge, a mixture of pure ridiculousness, laughter, and absurdity.

#11 -- Olympic Games in Merida

A month ago, the P.E. teachers at my school asked me to be a chaperone on a field trip and (this melted my heart) to teach the kids how to wrestle.  The field trip took us on a grueling 2-hour-early-morning-scream-filled-bus ride to Merida, a city full of Roman ruins.  The occasion was a series of Olympic-style games, with more than 20 high schools from Extremadura participating, all of the events in the middle of a millenia-old ampitheater.  We took part in three different competitions -- pentathalon, races, and wrestling.  And they chose me to be the wrestling coach.

Before we even left for the field trip, I tried to teach the kids some basic moves.  It went horribly.  The hand control exercise degraded into a slap fight, and the half-nelson turned into fish flopping around on the mat.  Their actual matches went only slightly better.  Spanish 'wrestling' is worlds apart from any other kind of recognized wrestling in the universe-- it reminded me of a mixture of judo, sumo, and dirt-bike racing.  Points were rewarded just for pushing the opponent out of the circle. So, everyone turned into freight trains, sprinting recklessly at each other in head-on clashes that were determined more by momentum than skill.  My kids won a couple of matches, but only because of a stubborn Spanish inheritance that never lets them back down.

Unos chavales


We did better in the other events, winning 2nd place in one of the races and the pentathalon.  In spite of the relentless sun and the grueling 16-hour day, I had fun.  It was a good way to connect with the students outside of school, and to see yet another facet of Spanish life.  We dressed up in Roman togas and sandals, and all of the competitors marched through the ampitheater in a giant opening parade.  Watching the wrestling and the races, I suddenly became nostalgic for the childhood days of sports, where competition carried absolute weight and you didn't realize how you were the center of the spectator's attention.  In only 4 years my point of view has completely reversed.  Reality takes on a new meaning and you realize that the view from the outside, although less exciting, is wider and deeper.  It affords you a glimpse out of the corner of your eye where you see, unexpecting, that you are just participating in yet a bigger game.  It is sublter, equally as unimportant, and based on the same rigid web of imaginary rules.  Except in these Olympics, the Spanish kids shouting and playing are immersed and oblivious to the illusion.  It was refreshing, at least for a day, to share in this mutual excitement.

5/08/2011

#10 -- Paella with Reme and the Valencianos.

Yesterday Reme (a teacher at my elementary school) invited me to a family lunch.  Now, having some experience in this, I knew what I was in for -- a ton of food being pushed on me, welcoming family members, and non-stop banter.  Since they are all from Valencia, they were cooking the specialty of that region -- paella.  I walked in to the apartment to find the men in the kitchen, wearing aprons and cooking a giant plate of that tasty, typical, tantalizing, T-Rex-sized rice dish.  The platter they use is enormous, 2 feet in diameter and meant to serve 15 people.  It is so big that it has its own separate heating system, multiple burners connected to a bottle of gas.  This paella had everything -- peppers, onion, pork, squid, prawns, tomatoes, rice, and all manners of spices and seasonings.  The men were so good at cooking it that they could tell when it was ready just by the smell.  I really don't know how they did it, but it definitely qualifies as the best paella of my life.

This being a typical Spanish meal, we also had chorizo and cheese as appetizers.  We drank Catalan wine and as an after-dinner 'digestive' had shots of lemon licquer (limoncello).  Dessert was strawberries soaked in orange juice, pastries called 'ensaimadas', ice cream, and coffee.  These kinds of meals always impress me -- not just the sheer quantity and quality of the food, but the overall atmosphere.  I know that if you go with a smile on your face and a friendly attitude, you will always will always leave full and warm and only slightly drowsy.

5/02/2011

#9 -- Hiking and Biking with Yolanda

A teacher at my school is the epitome of adventure and openess.  She has gone on a month-long bike trip in the Himalayas; she camped in Finland during the 22-hour summer days; she does African dance and biking multiple times a week; to top it off, shes is a mentor for the classes that are struggling academically.  She lent me a bike to use during my time here, and always invites me on excursions.

I went hiking twice and biking once.  We always went through the 'Extremenan forest', a glorified name for mostly grassy flatlands, interspersed with gnarled and stunted acorn trees.  At the beginning, it is unimpressive.  But, after a while, one finds beauty in the repitition.  The clouds rise up looming like castles, forcing you to consider the kilometers of open land until you realize that your only other living companions are the pigs.

The first trip, we went hiking near a town called La Roca de La Sierra.  I found out that you can pick esparragus or potatoes wherever you find them, and that you can basically pass through any land, disregarding fences, signs, and barbed wire.  We explored an 800-year-old monastery; the roof and walls had crumbled from time and neglect, but a strange aura still hovered around the building.

.

On our bike trip we forded mini-lakes and climbed around irrigation canals.  This terrain lay flatter, so we zoomed past birds, porcupines, orchards, and old men trudging home from town.  Yolanda is another example of Spanish warmth and hospitality, a constant reminder to alway say yes to new places and experiences

5/01/2011

#8 -- Rick's troubled (and bruised) saga with Spanish police (and related hoodlums). Part 2

In March, Carnaval comes to Badajoz.  I wouldn't say that we celebrate Carnaval, but rather that it is an entity in itself, a third-person infection that enters the city and takes over all life for 5 days. It provides the perfect environment for all sorts of base actions that you would never see the rest of the year.  And, of course, Rick was the victim of one of them.

During Carnaval, everyone dresses up in ridiculous costumes.  Besides being entertaining, the costumes afford such a degreee of anonyminity  that you can see cowboys, flamenco dancers and ninjas peeing on churches and stealing bottles of liquor from bars.  Somehow, just putting on a mask lets people instantly fulfill their most primitive desires.  And, when the whole city is costumed, the chaos becomes amplified and you feel like you are just living in a dream world where people aren't limited by silly things like social norms or laws. Mix this with the sheer amounts of alcohol consumed, partying done, and pagan drumming, and Carnaval turns into an all-out bachannalian hot mess.

Carnaval during the day


Scene set.  Rick is dressed as a ninja.  I am a flamenco dancer.  We are in Plaza de Espana, and it is filled with thousands of revelers and multiple roving groups of drummers.  One of our friends, Ariela, had some problems with Spanish girls stealing her cell phone and camera .  Rick intervenes, America comes to save the day!

The next thing I see is Rick surrounded by 6 or 7 Spanish hoodlums.  He falls to the ground, they start kicking him, and suddenly everything clears out and there is just Rick still alive but with a mangled face.  Ariela didn't get her phone back.  It took a minute to process, but I suddenly realize, "Holy Crap, Rick just got jumped!".
My roomate Alonso, being a typical concerned Spaniard, took Rick to the hospital.  I think after his visit to the doctor,  Rick's Carnaval experience got cut short.  Luckily, he didn't get that hurt -- just some cosmetic damage to the old mug.

Fast forward a month and a half -- Rick recieves a letter in the mail telling him that he has to appear at court.  In front of a judge.  And if he doesn't, he will have legal problems.  We really have no idea why, but speculate that it has something to do with his hospital visit.  Rick's court date hasn't come yet, but I'm sure that its going to involve a Spanish judge speaking fast with obscure language, and Rick trying to explain that he was the one that got beat up, and was just trying to have a good time during Carnaval, and wondering to himself why the hell he has so many problems with the archaic and bureaucratic Spanish legal system.  Hopefully I won't have to write a Part 3.

4/30/2011

#7 -- Rick's troubled (and bruised) saga with Spanish police (and related hoodlums). Part 1

It all started one night in maybe December when Rick, Anacelia, and I decided to go out and experience the watered-down-faded-neon that is Badajoz nightlife.  Walking back from Valdepasillas, we passed the police station and Rick accidentally knocked over one of their barricades (read: drunkenly roundhouse kicked it clanging to the ground).  Then he did a couple of celebratory heel clicks and let loose a Viking victory shout.

Well, the police watching us from the station 20 feet away weren't very pleased, so they came over to have a chat.  Rick, though, thinks that they are just disgruntled neighbors, so he flees, raptor-sprinting away through the Badajoz jungle.  Naturally, Spanish police don't take it as a very kind gesture when you run from them, so they pursued like yelping dogs in an English fox hunt  (except in this hunt, the dogs have 2 police cars and 6 officers on foot speeding after the fox who is stumbling over curbs and bushes and garbage containers).

So they caught him.  But it also didn't help that Rick was carrying a hunting knife in his pocket.  Bowie style, sheath and all.  He did the smart thing at the time, telling the police that "I have a knife in my pocket" -- which, in hindsight, is probably not a smart thing at all to do (imagine being a policeman and hearing that from a foreigner at 3 a.m.).  So they decided to get a little rowdy, pulled out their nightsticks, a gave him a good whack or two on the leg to make sure he was properly subdued and handcuffed.

Confusion ensued for about an hour until they let me go into the police station to see how Rick was doing.  He seemed comfortable, the only criminal in the place, surrounded by 5 or 6 very serious Spanish police.  They needed his passport for some paperwork, so I went back to his apartment to retrieve it (he wasn't allowed to leave the station).  After lengthy amounts of  apologizing and talking about respecting authority and calling people señor, Rick was let off without any charges, only the warning that if he ever got into trouble again they would banish his ass from Spain.  I know I learned my lesson -- the police must be feared and obeyed, because if any thing upsets their perfect skeleton facade, giving them an excuse to exercise power, they will aprovechar it to the full extent.  I'm only surprised that they didn't take out the search helicopter.

#6 -- If this is pueblo life, I'm leaving the city.

Today I went to Alonso's pueblo, Dehesilla de Calamon.  Like usual, his mom made us delicious food (pata negra pork, patatas fritas, ensalada, pan, cerveza, bizcocho, pizza, and cafe), we ate outside in the beautiful weather, and talked about  how different life in Spain is from the rest of Europe.  Then we played with his crazy-protective-lion dog Pio, washed his car, played some chess, and had a chupito taste-test (manzanilla, menta, jerez, limoncello).  Interactions with his parents are easy and comfortable -- the key to everything is just friendliness and smiles.  But my favorite part of the day was when we went for a walk at dusk in the countryside.  I looked for flowers for Melky, (all the flowers grow thorns to protect their fruit from the animals in summer), everything disappeared from the horizon and there was just the sky, then you see the seams holding the heavy clouds straining and breaking and suddenly it is pouring thick drops of rain and we are sprinting home.  Then the rain stops and we see both ends of a rainbow, his house is in the middle, and we know that it is the right place to go to and then leave from.

#5 -- Spanish Processions -- what it was like before they used cars in parades.

Looking at the processions today on Easter Sunday, the clapping seems out of place for a mintue or two.  Then you realize that this kind of clapping is more fitting than the cheering of a soccer game -- pure celebration, congratulation, and encouragement for those toiling to make the processions perfect.  The saints are on humongous wooden gilded platforms carried by about 20 people.  They slog across town from church to church, accompanied by a band behind and spectators gawking from both sides of the street.  These last for about a week, with different saints leaving each day.

Today we saw Jesus finding Mary.  At one point in the procession, he bows down on his knees to her and flowers fall from the sky.  After, they go into the main square and do a sort of parlay dance -- back and forth, back and forth.  Then Jesus kneels again to Mary, Mary to Jesus, and doves were realeased out from under the platforms, flying over the square filled with hundreds of people.  I think this is the climax of Easter Sunday -- afterwards, everyone is happy and fulfilled and goes to the cafes to drink a couple of non-alcoholic beers.

4/26/2011

#4 -- In Memory of my mouse Melky

Walking back home from an 8 day vaction in Mallorca, my German roomate Laila let me into the house.  Then she told me that my  pet mouse Melquiades had died.  A pet rat dying isn't really a life-changing circumstance, but it still kind of shook me.  I had only taken care of him for 2 months, but it was still good to know that life was always existing in my room.  Running around on a wheel, sniffing, gnawing, blinking and exploring -- this is a reminder of constant activity.  Life not reflecting upon itself but just being and expanding is a good thing to see.  And now all I am left with is the fading footprint of a rat that  barely passed through my life, bringing mostly amusement and happiness and a smelly room.


(the only surviving picture of Melky) (Lolo is in the picture too)

#3 -- Could Mallorca get any more peaceful? Yes, yes it can.

The 8 days in Mallorca visiting Eicher brought a lot of new openings and adventures.  One day we visited the town where he teaches, Alcudia.  Two of his teachers (co-workers) let us stay at their house, and it is really difficult for me to think of a more lucid, clear-eyed, and healthy couple.  Alicia (like Alice in wonderland [she really did have some kind of magical aura around her]) and Santi (an ex-clinical psychologist who now teaches history, has a ponytail, and rides a motorcycle) cooked us meals and gave us the house keys. Their house is beautiful, with a view of the ocean, an open terrace, and a massage table. At night I played chess with Santi, who speaks thoughtfully and talks about how in Castilla they don't use any herbs or spices.  They just have the pure taste of the lamb.  Alicia seems like a great teacher -- she has that exuberance of complete control over herself and her environment.  She lived in the USA for 5 years, spending one year in Florida learning how to be a massage therapist.  Only a little strange was her adoration for her 3-legged bilingual cat Mona, whose full-frame picture lives above the fireplace.  Being in that house for 24 hours, I always felt surrounded by openess and communication.  I'm only jealous because Eicher got to ride on Santi's motorcycle to work.  The next day, we explored Roman towers, abandoned houses, and forest grottoes.

4/25/2011

#2 -- Rock Hopping in Mallorca

We spent the first 2 days and nights in Mallorca hiking the 'Ruta de Pedra en Sec'.  Eicher, Rick, Kyle and I stayed in refugios -- bunk bed hostels that cost 11 Euros a night where you are surrounded by people in expensive hiking gear and screaming children.  But they were both in amazing locations; the first one up high in the mountains but overlooking everything as it slides down and spreads to the ocean below.  The second refugio sat next to a lighthouse on a cliff, a kind of daunting edifice when you gaze at it from Puerto Soller.  The hiking was the best part -- we went 18 miles the second day (probably half downhill on stone stairs).  We went around dams and did night hiking above the clouds.  Aqueduct and terraces everywhere, weird ahistorical evidences that seemed to exist forever, demanding constant inhuman amounts of work.  Almost every single path that we walked on was a part of a terrace, and I could not get one question out of my mind -- why are these here and where are the people that built them?



 Everything exists in strange groups in this island.  We walked through the middle of a race, hundreds of spandexed and highsocked people running and drudging and dragging through the entire 180 kilometers of the trail in 24 hours.  In 1 hour we passed maybe 50 oil painters, all sitting with matching easels and brushes, everyone trying to mimic the impossible patterns of stone.  At the end of the hike, we made it to the beach.  We drank boxed wine with lemon soda; ate bread, tomatoes, anchovies and oranges; played paddleball and juggled; and created Burmese Tiger Traps in the sand.  My word for this trip would be recharging.  In the exhaustion and openess of the mountains you empty yourself and make it easier to stretch and grow.

1/20/2011

#1 -- A Spanish book about a Spanish man

[La Familia de Pascual Duarte: Camilo Jose Cela.]  I just finished reading this book in Spanish.  Although I probably missed a lot of the nuances and ironies that won Cela a Nobel Prize, I can say one thing: Pascual Duarte is one strange bird.  The book is a long letter within a frame narrative, written by Pascual himself, laying out his whole life (except the details of his death -- included in a kind of postscript letter) (most of it takes place in Extremadura -- sweet!).  Some noteworthy events -- Pascual stabs someone on his wedding night (for insulting his manhood), Pascual stabs his wife's lover who also happens to be his sister's lover (for insulting his manhood), Pascual's child dies from 'bad air'(a cough), Pascual's first wife dies from shame about her illegitimate pregnancy, Pascual runs away to Madrid and then the coast, Pascual stabs his mother for silently staring bullets at him, and finally Pascual dies on the gallows -- his last words are "God's will be done".

So, the collective sentiment about Pascual would be that he is a murderer and an all-around asshole.  But once these events are placed into context, you become overwhelmed with the feeling that Pascual could not have done otherwise.  He was raised in the midst of violence and stagnation, and shaped by a society where the ego is the definition of a person.  The acts were already determined before being committed; this is accentuated by the character of the'letter-narrative' -- they actually did happen 50 years before the account was written.

I even find myself wondering about the lack of thought that Pascual puts into his actions.  One point in the book he says something to the effect of "that was the one point in my life where I most felt the desire to restrain my violence.  But I could not help myself, and as soon as he spoke I followed through with the knife thrust".  Instead of seeing Pascual's desire to do otherwise, we instead glimpse his pure confusion at why he acted the way he did.  In all of these important moral turning points, Pascual's head enters a fuzzy, removed status and his muscles work for themselves.  He usually regains consciousness outside of the village, fleeing through the dawn.

And yet, this lack of debilitating self-questioning (do we call this 'guilt'?) also benefits Pascual.  He can walk in the darkness for miles, be in high spirits alone in the middle of Madrid, and keep fighting and raging in the face of horrible circumstances.  It is a survival instinct, an inborn tendency to continue the struggle, the unbeatable tooth and bone of the campesino.  And really, the best way to continue the fight is to not even see it as a fight at all, but instead as a way of living.  This is the force within which we cannot understand, which motivates and powers Pascual, that allows him to keep moving in spite  of the horrible turns his life takes.  In the end, this inner perpetual action of undefeat is what determines, really, that the last living person in the family of Pascual Darte is Pascual himself, by himself, surrounded by himself.  He must keep moving, walking, writing (stabbing?) in the face of everything.

This is what struck me most about the book, that Pascual Duarte seems to be some sort of variation on tragedy.  His life was set out for him, and he has to watch horrified as his hand stabs his mother, as his child dies from a simple cough.  A depressing view, yes.  But ultimately I am comforted by the twist which Cela makes; Duarte realizes his fate, and does not face it with downcast head and fear in his eyes, but instead with a loud death cry of affirmation and hope.

Pascual Duarte as a Spanish novel;  Spain is portrayed as a land full of ancient and collective tradition.  Because the novel mostly takes place in the dusty countryside of rural Spain, there is an odd lack of technological progress. Madrid is a teeming land of unfamiliarity.  One can easily make and subsequently walk away from personal connections in the metropolis.  Cities are impersonal places, consequences of capitalism, where you go to buy new tools or things for your house.  Pascual had his honeymoon in a city -- the cops were called because they 'made too much noise', and he had to bribe them to keep from going to jail.  

As a contrast, the family in the campo is the axis around which Pascual revolves.  It always brings him back, no matter how far he tries to pull away.  It is the place where he developed, where he belongs, where he knows, where he committed his most important and characteristic actions.  When considering La Familia de Pascual Duarte as a specifically Spanish novel, we can see both the creative and destructive sides of inheritance, family, and tradition itself.